Jason KnightBefore building the mould, a building plan, in the format of a video script was written, to thoroughly think through and plan each step before going ahead.
Dialogue | Shot Type | 📁 |
| 1. Intro | ||
Hey everyone! | White Wall Mould, skateboards and extruder out in front of me | 1 |
In this video I am going to show you how to build a mould which you can use to make skateboard decks from 100% recycled plastic! The mould is open source, which means you can download all of the CAD files, Bill of materials, electronics diagrams + everything else you need to make it yourself for free. | ||
They are made using an extrusion machine, like this one which is also open source! | ||
So you can also build one or buy one yourself! | ||
Check out the links in the description! | ||
| 2. Breakdown | ||
So the entire mould can be broken down into three parts, the mould itself, the table and the electronics box. | White Wall Mould out in front of me. | 2 |
| 3. Mould | ||
The mould itself is made up of four main parts,
| White Wall Mould sections on table in front of me | 3.1 |
Top and Bottom Plates | ||
First you're going to make the top and bottom plates. | White Wall Mould sections on table in front of me Point at top and bottom. | 3.2 |
You are going to need: ○ CNC Cut Aluminum Blocks Which form the top and bottom faces of the decks ○ 0.5mm Stainless Steel Washer Plates ○ 10mm Laser Cut Steel Sheets ○ M5 x 10mm Dowel Pins x8 ○ M10 x 16mm Countersunk Bolts x10 ○ M10 x 30mm Countersunk Bolts x10 ○ M20 Thin Nuts x 8 ○ Heat Resistant Paint x2 ○ Safety Stickers x8 | Jump between wide and Close up pointing at separate parts | 3.2 |
First take the laser cut steel back plates. You will need to countersink all the M10 holes so that the head of the bolt lays below the surface. | Pillar drill perspective shots | 3.2 |
On the same side you can also use the countersink to put a slight chamfer on the M20 holes to guide the bolts into place when using the mould for production. On the top plate the chamfer is on the same side as the M10 holes and on the bottom plate it is on the opposite side. | Pillar drill perspective shots | 3.2 |
Insert the flat nuts into the hexagon cutouts, weld them in place then grind them flat. | Welding perspective shots Grinding perspective shots | 3.2 |
Clean the metal with degreaser and apply a layer of heat proof paint to the plates. | Painting perspective shots | 3.2 |
Use a countersink to remove the paint in the countersunk part of the M10 holes. This is for electrical grounding and ensures that the top and bottom plates are connected to the aluminium. | Close up | 3.2 |
Next you need to bolt the aluminium surfaces to the back plates, note that they have an orientation (The nose and the tail are different heights) so make sure to measure them carefully and align them with the arrows. | Bench Measure with calipers Check drawing | 3.2 |
The top plate has a layer of stainless steel washer plates between the aluminium surface and the steel plate. This allows you to adjust the thickness of the deck by adding and removing them. They are stainless steel because you can't paint them to keep the thickness even, and they would rust if they were normal steel. | Bench Show washers fanned out | 3.2 |
You may need to change the bolt size if you want to adjust the thickness of the deck but by default it is 30mm on the top and 16mm on the bottom. | Bench Show bolts | 3.2 |
Next you can insert the dowel pins into the holes in the base plate. These are to mark where you need to drill the truck holes. | Bolting in place montage | 3.2 |
Finally stick the safety stickers between the handles. | Close-up | 3.2 |
|
| ||
Next you're going to make the edge of the mould. | White Wall Finished part on table in front of me. Topshot of Parts. | 3.3 |
You are going to need: ○ The CNC cut Aluminium Block ○ 2mm laser Cut sheets ○ 10mm Laser Cut Steel Sheets ○ Steel C Beams We got our laser cut but you can also drill them by hand. ○ 1 Inch Diameter Round Stainless-Steel Stock It is the same as the Precious Plastic Injection machine barrel so you may already have some in your workshop ○ Some Plumbing Fittings - 2 BmSP ¾” weld on thread - BSP ¾” swivel adapter This thing is really cool as it allows you to attach the mould to the nozzle without rotating the whole mould. We also laser cut a handle to attach to the adapter ○ M3 x 10mm Socket Cap Bolts x 8 ○ M5 x 10mm Socket Cap Bolts x 14 ○ M5 Washers x 14 ○ One M8 Nut ○ M10 x 16mm Countersunk Bolts x 8 ○ M10 x 40mm Countersunk Bolts x 28 ○ Heat Resistant Paint ○ Metal Paint We went for military paint as it's strong, durable, available in the same colour all over the world. ○ Safety Stickers ○ There are also some electronics components but we will explain that later in the video | White Wall Finished part on table in front of me. Topshot of Parts. Closeup of each item. | 3.3 |
On one of the end plates there are some cutouts for the electronics. Around each of the cutouts there are some center points for holes marked. | Pointing at cutouts | 3.3 |
Drill and tap each of these with an M3 thread. You will need a 2.5mm drill. | Drilling shot | 3.3 |
Take the end plates and C beams and countersink the middle row of holes. Make sure to countersink the correct side of the end plates. | Table shot Walk over to pillar drill Closeup of drilling | 3.3 |
One of the C beams has an extra hexagonal hole. | Pointing at holes | 3.3 |
Insert an M8 nut into the hexagonal hole and tack weld it in place. | Close up grinding shot | 3.3 |
Next we will insert the weld on threads into the hole in the frame. | Insert Shot | 3.3 |
The insert should be 0.25mm shorter than the thread of the swivel adapter so you can tighten the swivel adapter against the aluminium block. | Measuring Shot | 3.3 |
If it is any longer you can cut it shorter using a lathe chop saw or grinder. | Cutting Shot | 3.3 |
Tack then fully weld the thread in place. | Welding Shot | 3.3 |
It's Important to grind the back face flat so that the seal is tight against the aluminium . | Welding shot | 3.3 |
Once they are welded you can make sure the thread is clean with a BSP ¾” tapping tool. | Tapping Shot | 3.3 |
Place a small round sticker or piece of tape over each of the bolt holes to block a small area from being painted. This is to ensure all the metal components are connected together for electrical grounding. | Hold up stick, Close up of stickers | 3.3 |
Apply a layer of heat proof paint to the inside faces of the beams and end plates, that will contact the aluminium. | Painting Shot | 3.3 |
Using a set square and scribe, mark the middle of the C beam on the top and bottom face | Marking Shot | 3.3 |
Next take the bodywork mounting tabs. Tap each of the holes with an M5 thread. | Holding up to camera Tapping in vice shot | 3.3 |
You can also mark the vertical middle using a Caliper | Marking Shot | 3.3 |
Take the tabs and weld them in place. The four end tabs align flush to the end plates. | Welding Shot | 3.3 |
The two tabs that you scored are in the middle, use the score line on the tabs and the C beams to position them correctly. | Close Up | 3.3 |
Lay your beams out around the middle aluminium block in the position they will be bolted in place. | Top Shot | 3.3 |
The end of the C beam with the nut lines up with the end plate that has the extra hole for the thermocouple, and the edge of the aluminium block that has an extra hole. | Pointing at holes | 3.3 |
Bolt the C beams and end plates in place. The end plates need 16mm bolts and the side plates need 40mm bolts. | Bolting shot (Top + Side) | 3.3 |
Protect the aluminium using masking tape for the sides and cardboard for the top and the bottom, |
| 3.3 |
Tack weld the four corners on the top and bottom of each part to join the four pieces together. | Welding shot (wide) | 3.3 |
Then fully weld the four corners of the mould. | Welding shot close | 3.3 |
Grind the top and bottom welds flat. | Grinding shot | 3.3 |
Next take your swivel adapter and weld the handle on to the freely rotating part. | Welding shot | 3.3 |
Grind the front face flat so the bodywork panel mounts on correctly. | Grinding shot | 3.3 |
Check that the tabs align with the side panels by bolting them in place. If not you will need to cut them out and re align them. | Boling panel in palace | 3.3 |
Screw the swivel adapter into the end plate. | Screwing Shot | 3.3 |
Clean the frame with degreaser and apply a layer of heat proof paint. Stick a small round sticker around the bolt holes on each of the body work mounting tabs. | Degreasing Stickers Painting Shot | 3.3 |
You can also paint the bodywork panels, again cleaning them with degreaser and placing a small sticker over each of the bolt holes. For the bodywork panels we just used regular metal paint. | Degreasing Stickers Painting Shot | 3.3 |
You can leave the bodywork panels off now as you will need to install some electronics later on. |
| 3.3 |
Next you're going to make the handle. | Holding up handles | 3.3 |
Take your 1 inch diameter stainless steel rods. | Cutting on chop saw shot | 3.3 |
Cut them to length using a chop saw or grinder. | Cutting on chop saw shot | 3.3 |
Using a lathe drill and 40mm deep 9mm diameter hole at the end of each of the rods. | Lathe shot | 3.3 |
Then tap the holes with an M10 tap. | Tapping shot | 3.3 |
If you cannot find stainless steel rods, regular steel will also work but you will have to apply a layer of paint to protect it from rust. | Paint shot | 3.3 |
You can also leave the bodywork handles off now as you will need to install some electronics later on. |
|
|
|
| ||
Next you're going to make the support structures. | White Wall Finished part on table in front of me. Topshot of Parts. Closeup of each ite | 3.4 |
You are going to need: ○ Steel C Beams ○ Heat Resistant Paint (3) ○ Safety Stickers (3) | 3.4 | |
Take the four longer beams. On two of them, countersink the M20 holes on the inside face. On the other two, countersink the holes on the outside face. | Table shot, Countersinking closeup shot | 3.4 |
Next weld the frames together. | Welding shot | 3.4 |
Note that the top and bottom sections have the shorter beams in different orientations, and have the countersinks facing a specific way. Double check in the drawings to make sure you weld them correctly. The bottom sections have holes laser cut in. | Closup of countersinks | 3.4 |
To align the middle piece use a ruler and scribe to mark the center of each piece. | Closup of marking | 3.4 |
Tack weld the parts together, check that the holes align with the holes on the top and bottom plates of the mould. If they do not adjust them with a hammer or cut them and re tack them in place. | Welding shot | 3.4 |
Once you are sure everything is aligned, fully weld each section. | 3.4 | |
Make sure the welds on faces that contact the body of the mould are grinded flat. | Grinding shot | 3.4 |
Clean the metal with degreaser and apply a layer of heat proof paint to both sections. | Paint shot | 3.4 |
Finally attach the safety stickers to the edge of the frames. |
|
|
|
| ||
The final part of the mould body is the fasteners which will hold the whole thing together. | White Wall Finished part on table in front of me. Topshot of Parts. Closeup of each item. | 3.5 |
We went for M20, nice and big. Make sure to get 12.9 grade steel, they are strong and durable. | 3.5 | |
You are going to need: ○ M20 x 250mm Hex Bolts (6) ○ Extra Thick M20 Washers (12) ○ M20 Flange Nuts (6) ○ Fluorescent Paint (1) |
| |
Spray the nuts, the washers and the heads of the bolts fluorescent orange so that they are easy to find. | Painting shot | 3.5 |
| 4. Table | ||
Next you're going to make the table. | White Wall Finished part on table in front of me. Topshot of Parts. Closeup of each item. | 4.1 |
The table can be split into three main sections,
| 4.1 | |
Base | ||
You will start with the base and work up. | White Wall Finished part on table in front of me. Topshot of Parts. Closeup of each item. | 4.2 |
You are going to need: ○ Steel C Beams ○ Heavy Duty Caster Wheels with Breaks (4) ○ M5 x 10mm Socket Cap Bolts (32) ○ M5 Washers (32) ○ Metal Paint (2) | 4.2 | |
On the foot beams there are some centre points for the holes marked. | Close up of centre points | 4.2 |
Drill and tap each of these with an M5 thread. You will need a 4mm drill. | Drill and tap shot | 4.2 |
On the two foot beams, mark the centre of the larger outside face. | Close up marking shot | 4.2 |
Weld the two longer beams together. You can use the long M20 bolts to help align them for clamping. | Welding shot | 4.2 |
Now position the two foot beams, with the centre mark using an L angle and weld them in place. | Wides shot | 4.2 |
Place a small round sticker or piece of tape over each of the bolt holes to block a small area from being painted. | Close up |
|
Next clean the metal with degreaser and apply a layer of metal paint. | Painting shot | 4.2 |
Once it has dried attach the caster wheels. | Bolting on caster wheels | 4.2 |
|
| ||
Next we are going to make the legs. | White Wall Finished thing in front of me. | 4.3 |
You are going to need: ○ 10mm Laser Cut Steel Sheets ○ Steel C Beams ○ M10 x 40mm Countersunk Bolts (4) ○ M10 Locknut (With Flange) (4) ○ Large M10 Washers (8) ○ M20 x 80 Hex Bolts (4) ○ M20 x 250 Hex Bolts (4) ○ M20 Lock Nuts (8) ○ M20 Washers (38) ○ Thin M20 Washers (4) ○ An M20 Nut (1) ○ An M20 Flange Nut (1) ○ An M20 Dome Nut (1) ○ An M20 Bar Stud (1) ○ An M20 x Threaded Rod (1) ○ Metal Paint (2) ○ Fluorescent Paint (1) | White Wall Finished part on table in front of me. Topshot of Parts. Closeup of each item. | 4.3 |
Start by taking the small C cut beams | Welding shot | 4.3 |
Weld the end plates onto the C beams. | 4.3 | |
And grind the welds flat |
| 4.3 |
You will notice one of the beams has a hexagonal hole inside. Insert the M20 Bar Stud into the hole and weld it in place. | Close up of hole | 4.3 |
Grind the welds flat | Close up | 4.3 |
Clean the metal with degreaser and apply a layer of metal paint to the beams and the strips. | Countersink shot | 4.3 |
On the inside of two of the leg pieces there is an M10 hole. Countersink the hole so that the head of the M10 countersunk bolts lays below the surface. | Close up of M10 hole | 4.3 |
Take the M20 threaded road and weld A nut on to the end to make a really long bolt | Closeup of nut, weld | 4.3 |
and grind the head smooth. |
|
|
Spray the end of the bolt, one of the M20 Washers and the M20 Dome nut with fluorescent paint. | Painting shot | 4.3 |
Referring to the drawing, from the base up, start to assemble the strips. You can apply a bit of engine grease or WD-40 to all of the bolts. | Painting shot | 4.3 |
Insert the bolt through the C beam with the round hole in. | Wide assembly shot | 4.3 |
Add an M20 washer and a flange nut to the middle of the beam. | 4.3 | |
Thread the rod through the M20 Bar Stud at the other end of the C Beam. | 4.3 | |
Now move the flange nut and washer against the inside face of the C beam. You want it to be a little bit loose, so that the rod can rotate freely. | Close up of welding, rotate rod | 4.3 |
Weld it in place. | 4.3 | |
Finally tighten the M20 acorn nut on to the end of the M20 Threaded Rod. | Close up of acorn nut | 4.3 |
Top | ||
Next we are going to make the top | White Wall Finished thing in front of me. | 4.4 |
You are going to need: ○ Steel C Beams ○ Heavy Duty Compression Springs (6) ○ M20 x 80mm Hex Bolts (6) ○ M20 Washers (12) ○ M20 Lock Nuts (6) ○ Metal Paint (2) ○ Safety Stickers (2) | White Wall Finished part on table in front of me. Topshot of Parts. Closeup of each item. | 4.4 |
Take the two C beams and weld them together. You can use the long M20 bolts to help align them for clamping. | Wide shot | 4.4 |
Grind the welds flat |
| 4.4 |
Clean the metal with degreaser and apply a layer of metal paint to them. | Close up of cleaning | 4.4 |
You can also apply a layer of orange paint to the springs. | Close up of paining | 4.4 |
Bolt the top of the table to the top of the legs. | Close up | 4.4 |
Finally stick the safety stickers down each side of the legs. | Close up | 4.4 |
| 5. Electronics | ||
Finally you are going to install the electronics | White Wall Finished part on table in front of me. Topshot of Parts. Closeup of each item. | 5.1 |
You are going to need: ○ 2mm Laser Cut sheets ○ M5 x 10mm Socket Cap Bolts ○ M5 Washers ○ M5 Nuts ○ M3 x 10mm Socket Cap Bolts ○ Metal Paint ○ Safety Stickers ○ Electronics Components | 5.1 | |
There are quite a lot of electronics components and they are quite specific so you can check the BOM for the full list. | 5.1 | |
Enclosure | ||
Next we are going to make the Enclosure. | White Wall Finished box in front of me | 5.2 |
First weld the laser cut parts to make the enclosure. | Wide welding shot | 5.2 |
And grind the external welds flat |
|
|
Tap the four bolt holes with an M5 thread. | Close up | 5.2 |
Place a small round sticker or piece of tape over each of the bolt holes to block a small area from being painted. We also covered each of the internal holes in the box so that each electronic component is individually grounded. | Close up | 5.2 |
Clean the metal with degreaser and apply a layer of metal paint. | Painting shot | 5.2 |
Once it has dried, install the electronics components in the box. | Top shot montage | 5.2 |
This part is very complicated so be sure to follow the circuit diagram. | 5.2 | |
Next attach the power supply cables to the enclosure. |
|
|
Finally we are going to install the safety stickers on the front cover |
|
|
Edge | ||
Next we are going to install the electronics components in to the mould edge. | White Wall Finished part on table in front of me. Topshot of Parts. Closeup of each item. | 5.3 |
Install the quick connectors for the cartridge heaters and thermocouples on to the end plate using the M3 socket cap bolts. | Close up of both | 5.3 |
Next insert the cartridge heaters into the aluminum block. | Side shot | 5.3 |
Apply a small blob of heat resistant glue around the outer edge before inserting them. | Close up of applying glue | 5.3 |
The cartridge heaters are 380V so each is wired in parallel between two of the phases. | Wiring shot | 5.3 |
Split the cartridge heaters evenly, in groups of 21, 21 and 22 between the phases. You can color code each hole with a marker to make sure you wire them correctly. | 5.3 | |
Make sure that the phase that has the extra cartridge heater is not the phase that powers the components inside the enclosure. |
|
|
They are joined by splicing the wires then covering them with PTFE Shrink wrap. | Close up | 5.3 |
Remove the hub from the cartridge heater connector and attach the three phase cables to the terminals then re-install the hub. | Close up | 5.3 |
Attach a ground cable from the ground terminal of the connector to the M5 hole on the nozzle plate. And one to the rear of one of the port mount holes. | Close up | 5.3 |
Remove the hub from the back of the thermocouple connector, cut the thermocouple cable with enough length that it can reach the M8 Nut, plus a bit more. | Close up | 5.3 |
Thread the thermocouple into the M8 Hex Nut. | Close up | 5.3 |
Install the bodywork panels. | Wide shot | 5.3 |
Bolt the handles in place using 40mm M10 bolts. | Bolt shot | 5.3 |
Finally stick the safety stickers on the end plates and the bodywork panels. | Close ups | 5.3 |
| 6. Assembly | ||
So now we have all the components we need and we are going to assemble the mold. | White wall Finished part on table in front of me. Topshot of Parts. Closeup of each item. | 6 |
Take the bottom support structure and bolt it to the top of the table with the springs between the table top and the support structure. | Wide | 6 |
Place the bottom, middle, then top of the mould on the table. | 6 | |
Then place the top support structure on top of the mould. | 6 | |
Bolt the whole structure together. | Close up | 6 |
Install the electronics box on the base of the table. | Wide shot | 6 |
It has four bolts on the underside, and you have the choice to install it flat or at an angle. | Close up of bolts | 6 |
Attach the power supply and thermocouples. |
| 6 |
| 7. Make A Deck | ||
To use the mould, first we are going to open it and apply a layer of silicone oil to the inside faces using a clean cloth. | White wall Both next to each other Not attached Mould open |
|
Close the mould and tighten the bolts. Using a torque wrench or impact driver. | Close Up | 7 |
Pre heat both the extruder and the mould | Close up switches and PIDs | 7 |
Make sure you are wearing the correct PPE | Put on | 7 |
Use the adjustment bolt to alight the extruder nozzle to the mold entry. |
| 7 |
Using the handles, attach the extruder nozzle to the end of the extruder. | Wide shot | 7 |
Feed the plastic into the extruder and wait for the mold to fill. | Pouring shot | 7 |
You tell when the mould is full by watching the small hole at the opposite end to the extruder. | Close up | 7 |
Wait for the mould to cool | Clock | 7 |
And open it up! | Opening wide shot | 7 |
If it gets stuck there is a small groove around the edge between the C beams and the top and bottom plates. You can use a crowbar to lever it open. | Same shot as before, wide. | 7 |
As a last resort there are also some release holes, screw an M20 bolt in to each of them, tightening them one by one in circular pattern | Close up | 7 |
Gently break the extra material and lever the deck out of the mould | Lever | 7 |
And there it is! | Hold up deck | 7 |
The next step is to hit the street! | Skating shots | 7 |
| 8. Outro | ||
Our next video which shows you how to make decks using the mould! | White Wall Finished mould in front of me | 8 |
Project RPSD is a non profit organisation publishing open source plastic recycling research online for free. If you would like to support the development of this project follow the URLS below to like us on Facebook, follow us on Instagram, join our mailing list, make a donation and become a supporter on Patreon. Sharing our posts and spreading the word about our project opens a lot of doors for us! We are also very keen to hear about any collaborations or opportunities you guys see! Thanks for watching! | URLS | 8 |
Discussions
Become a Hackaday.io Member
Create an account to leave a comment. Already have an account? Log In.