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Electromagnetic Levitation Stabilization Apparatus

This project aims to stabilize objects during earthquakes using electromagnets and an accelerometer.

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This project aims to make an electromagnetic levitation apparatus that automatically stabilizes to combat opposing forces. The system includes 4 electromagnets on the corners of the structure. A gyrometer is constantly taking measurements and will detect if the levitating platform starts to tilt. If this happens, the system will send 12 volts through specific electromagnets causing the platform to levitate a few inches off of the structure. This can be used to stabilize weapons in the army, stabilize a building, and stabilize components in a camera.

This project aims to make an electromagnetic levitation apparatus that automatically stabilizes to combat opposing forces. The system includes 4 electromagnets on the corners of the structure. A gyrometer is constantly taking measurements and will detect if the levitating platform starts to tilt. If this happens, the system will send 12 volts through specific electromagnets causing the statue to levitate a few inches off of the structure. Using Maxwell Tensile Strength calculations to find the magnetic flux, the apparatus can theoretically lift 11 kilograms 1 inch into the air. Depending on the tilt of the statue as measured by the gyrometer, the electromagnets will compensate by sending added voltage in the opposite direction. This is done by 4 transistors and pulse width modulation control using an Arduino. Pulse width modulation is a type of digital signal that helps to vary voltage to the electromagnets. Therefore, the statue will stay flat regardless of any movement. The experiment was conducted to see if there would be a statistically greater angle at which a block on a platform falls over with the apparatus compared to the angle without it. The research hypothesis states that the model statue with the apparatus would fall over at significantly greater angle than the model statue without the apparatus. The null hypothesis states that there will be no significant difference.  The results show an increase in angle at which the model statue falls over. Therefore, there is an increase in stability with the electromagnetic device. Without the apparatus, the model statue fell over at a mean angle of 14.286°. With the apparatus, it fell over at an average angle of 24.741°, a 73% increase in stability. The p-value calculated with a one-tailed independent t-test is 1.371*10-23 which is less than the alpha value, 0.05. Thus, the null hypothesis is rejected and the research hypothesis is supported. Therefore, the data supports that the apparatus is successful in stabilization of the platform.

Introduction

Rationale:

Current stabilization techniques are similar to the ones used in buildings in San Francisco to prevent damage from earthquakes and cost upwards of $265,000 (Anderson). Electromagnetic stabilization would be a cost-effective solution that would involve the base detecting an earthquake with a gyroscope/accelerometer that reads the X, Y, and Z rotational values and the surface responding with movement in roll, pitch, and yaw (Invensense). The levitating square-shaped surface would consist of a magnet at each corner and the aforementioned gyroscope. These values would be transmitted to an Arduino microcontroller chip (Diodes Incorporated, ON Semiconductor). Pulse Width Modulation uses a digital signal to control the current supplied to the 4 electromagnets in the base. Also, with four electromagnets and a 12 volt power supply, the structure can theoretically lift an 11 kg surface (Schmipf, Vogel).

Objective: The apparatus will determine if an electromagnetic levitation apparatus can improve the stability of a statue as measured by the angle at which the model statue falls over and a possible explanation for why.

Expectations: The model statue that uses the apparatus will fall at a significantly greater angle than the model statue that doesn’t use the apparatus. Thus, the apparatus will increase stability.

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  • 2 × 6in x 6in x 0.75 Wood
  • 2 × 6in x 8.5 in x 0.75 Wood
  • 1 × 6A05 Silicon Rectifier Diode
  • 1 × RadioShack UL Hookup Wire 18AWG
  • 1 × LK-Spring Double Side Prototype PCB Universal Printed Circuit Board with 5 Sizes,20PCS

View all 22 components

  • Varying the Voltage to the Electromagnets

    Rishi Salwi10/16/2017 at 04:14 0 comments

    I needed a way to vary the voltage going to the electromagnet. I immediately thought of using a digital potentiometer. When I bought my first digital potentiometer IC, I realized that it couldn't handle the current needed for the electromagnet. I bought a couple that could handle the current, but they were all made for PCBs, and I had no experience with printing PCBs. Therefore, I needed to find a new way to accomplish this task. I decided to use a transistor and a PWM signal from the Arduino. I tried about 10 different transistors. I finally found one that could handle the current going to electromagnet. It got really hot so I had to use liquid silicon and a heatsink to cool the transistor. 

  • Power Supply

    Rishi Salwi10/16/2017 at 04:10 0 comments

    I needed an adequate power supply that could give enough voltage to the electromagnets. I started with a 9 volt battery but this didn't have enough power. I then tried to use a computer power supply. Although, this had enough voltage, it was not safe to use in the long run.

    Image result for computer power supply

    I then decided to invest in a professional 12 volt power supply. This protected against short circuits and was perfect for my purposes!

  • Developing the Electromagnet

    Rishi Salwi10/16/2017 at 04:07 0 comments

    I needed to create electromagnets that could lift a platform. I started experimenting by using 32 gauge wire wrapped around a screwdriver. This did not have nearly enough lifting force. I tried to wrap it around a bolt instead, but this did not help. 

    I used this formula to try to refind my electromagnet. I found that I need wires of less resistance. Thus, I used 24 gauge wire wrapped around a bolt 500 times. This created about 10 N of force. 

  • MPU-6050

    Rishi Salwi10/16/2017 at 04:02 0 comments

    This was my first attempt at an electronics project. I had never soldered before. I had never wired anything. I had never used a breadboard. Thus, everything was really foreign to me. I looked up how to wire the MPU-6050 accelerometer and found this: 

    When I first connected it, I found that the light turned on but I couldn't get any data. After several days of troubleshooting, I found that I couldn't maintain a stable connection. Therefore, I realized that I had to solder the pins. Then I uploaded this code:

    // I2Cdev and MPU6050 must be installed as libraries, or else the .cpp/.h files
    // for both classes must be in the include path of your project
    #include "I2Cdev.h"
    #include "MPU6050_6Axis_MotionApps20.h"
    //#include "MPU6050.h" // not necessary if using MotionApps include file
    // Arduino Wire library is required if I2Cdev I2CDEV_ARDUINO_WIRE implementation
    // is used in I2Cdev.h
    #if I2CDEV_IMPLEMENTATION == I2CDEV_ARDUINO_WIRE
        #include "Wire.h"
    #endif
    // class default I2C address is 0x68
    // specific I2C addresses may be passed as a parameter here
    // AD0 low = 0x68 (default for SparkFun breakout and InvenSense evaluation board)
    // AD0 high = 0x69
    MPU6050 mpu;
    //MPU6050 mpu(0x69); // <-- use for AD0 high
    /* =========================================================================
       NOTE: In addition to connection 3.3v, GND, SDA, and SCL, this sketch
       depends on the MPU-6050's INT pin being connected to the Arduino's
       external interrupt #0 pin. On the Arduino Uno and Mega 2560, this is
       digital I/O pin 2.
     * ========================================================================= */
    /* =========================================================================
       NOTE: Arduino v1.0.1 with the Leonardo board generates a compile error
       when using Serial.write(buf, len). The Teapot output uses this method.
       The solution requires a modification to the Arduino USBAPI.h file, which
       is fortunately simple, but annoying. This will be fixed in the next IDE
       release. For more info, see these links:
       http://arduino.cc/forum/index.php/topic,109987.0.html
       http://code.google.com/p/arduino/issues/detail?id=958
     * ========================================================================= */
    // uncomment "OUTPUT_READABLE_QUATERNION" if you want to see the actual
    // quaternion components in a [w, x, y, z] format (not best for parsing
    // on a remote host such as Processing or something though)
    //#define OUTPUT_READABLE_QUATERNION
    // uncomment "OUTPUT_READABLE_EULER" if you want to see Euler angles
    // (in degrees) calculated from the quaternions coming from the FIFO.
    // Note that Euler angles suffer from gimbal lock (for more info, see
    // http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Gimbal_lock)
    //#define OUTPUT_READABLE_EULER
    // uncomment "OUTPUT_READABLE_YAWPITCHROLL" if you want to see the yaw/
    // pitch/roll angles (in degrees) calculated from the quaternions coming
    // from the FIFO. Note this also requires gravity vector calculations.
    // Also note that yaw/pitch/roll angles suffer from gimbal lock (for
    // more info, see: http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Gimbal_lock)
    #define OUTPUT_READABLE_YAWPITCHROLL
    // uncomment "OUTPUT_READABLE_REALACCEL" if you want to see acceleration
    // components with gravity removed. This acceleration reference frame is
    // not compensated for orientation, so +X is always +X according to the
    // sensor, just without the effects of gravity. If you want acceleration
    // compensated for orientation, us OUTPUT_READABLE_WORLDACCEL instead.
    //#define OUTPUT_READABLE_REALACCEL
    // uncomment "OUTPUT_READABLE_WORLDACCEL" if you want to see acceleration
    // components with gravity removed and adjusted for the world frame of
    // reference (yaw is relative to initial orientation, since no magnetometer
    // is present in this case). Could be quite handy in some cases.
    //#define OUTPUT_READABLE_WORLDACCEL
    // uncomment "OUTPUT_TEAPOT" if you want output that matches the
    // format used for the InvenSense teapot demo
    //#define OUTPUT_TEAPOT
    #define INTERRUPT_PIN...
    Read more »

View all 4 project logs

  • 1
    Construction of Base

    Note: See Paper for Figures

    1. Go to an open area, put on safety goggles, and long pants. Tie back any long hair
    2. Obtain the 6 in x 6 in wooden block and the ⅝ in drill bit.
    3. Mark off parallel lines 0.75 in from each edge of the block (see Figure 1)
    4. The intersections of the 4 lines should make four crosses. Drill 4 holes at these intersections using the ⅝ in drill bit and the drill press. (see Figure 1)
    5. Obtain the four 6 in bolts. Thread the four bolts through the holes.
    6. Thread the four washers through the bolts.
    7. Twist the ⅝ in nut on the narrow end of the bolt until the nut is flush with the washer.
  • 2
    Construction of Electromagnet

    Note: When using a band saw or drill press, make sure to wear safety goggles, clear the area, and be extremely careful.

    1. Obtain a 8 in x 8.5 in x 0.75 in block of wood.
    2. Mark 2 lines 2.5 in from the two longer edges with a t-square.
    3. Mark a line 2.5 inches from the top of the wood.
    4. This should divide the wood into six regions. Using a band saw, cut out the bottom left and bottom right portion to make a “T” shape. (See Figure 4)
    5. Mark lines 0.625 inches from each of the longer edges.
    6. Mark lines 0.625 inches and 1.375 inches from the top. This will create 4 intersections (see Figure 4)
    7. Repeat steps 1-6 on another piece of wood
    8. Obtain a 6 in x 8.5 in x 0.75 in block of wood.
    9. Mark 2 lines 1.5 in from the two longer edges.
    10. Mark a line 2.5 inches from the top of the wood.
    11. This should divide the wood into six regions. Using a band saw, cut out the bottom left and bottom right portions to make a “T” shape. (See Figure 5)
    12. Repeat steps 8-11 on another piece of wood.
    13. Use a vice grip to clamp one of the wider walls with the narrow ones as shown in Figure 4
    14. Drill a ½ in hole with the ½ in drill bit at the two intersections made in step 6 using a drill press.
    15. Repeat steps 13-14 on the other 3 sides of the 2 walls.
    16. Use the slotted screwdriver to screw 8 ½-11 x 1 screws into the 8 newly made holes. It should now look like Figure 6.
    17. Place the structure of 4 walls on the base (see Figure 7).
  • 3
    Circuitry/Wiring
    1. Obtain 4 transistors, 4 6 amp diodes, 4 1 Ω resistors, 18 gauge wire, the 6 row terminal, the 12 volt power source, the perfboard, and the Arduino.
    2. Connect the parts as shown in Figures 8 and 9 (the 2 power sources represent the positive and negative coming in from the 12 volt power source going into the 6 row terminal).
    3. Connect the base wires of the electromagnets into the black side of the diodes and the top wires of the electromagnet into the white sides.
    4. Solder 5 wires to the shown pins on the MPU-6050, and connect it as shown in Figures 8 and 9. In addition, solder all wires down in the perfboard. When soldering, be extremely careful. Make sure the iron doesn’t touch your skin. Use safety goggles and tie back long hair
    5. Plug in the 12 volt power source into the power surge as shown in Figure 10.

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