For SMD reflow soldering or temperature annealing of various materials up to 300 °C (572 °F)
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Installing the Freescale programming tools is not trivial.
How to start a new FRDM-KL25Z project:
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First try to read the temperature was with a Texas Instrument 16 bits ADC, ADS1118, and an Arduino.
It was a failure, because ADS1118 proves to be very unreliable when used with the schematics from it's own datasheet. I fried 3 chips. Still don't know how, but after I looked at the TI evaluation board schematic for ADS1118, I saw insane electrostatic protections for this chip. I guess it was an electrostatic failure, and I swear I never burnt a chip before in this way.
This is King ADS1118 Failure, the 3rd:
So, I looked for another 16 bits ADC, possible with a temperature sensor on it, for the cold junction compensation of the thermocouple. A K type thermocouple gives about 10 mV at 250 °C (482 °F), so a 16 bits ADC was a request in order to avoid a low voltage DC analog amplifier circuit and it's offset and temperature drift problems.
It proves out that the Freescale dev board FRDM-KL25Z was just the right thing:
With all these hardware goodies, the only drawback is that I am not so familiar with Freescale software development tools, but I really like working with something new.
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To leave the oven unchanged, a controlled on/off power outlet is necessary.
A case from a dead PC power supply is used as an enclosure for the high voltage side of the controller. This is very convenient because it already has power sockets, fan and ventilation holes. The electronics from the old PC supply was removed and replaced with a smaller Mean Well PT-45B power source, a 220V AC to +5, +12 and -12V DC. This will power all the electronics.
The AC line is switched on/off by a BT139-600E triac, placed on a small radiator. The radiator size is big enough for a case with a running fan. For a galvanic isolation between the 220 AC line and the rest of the electronics parts, the power triac is driven by a small optotriac, MOC 3063. This particular model of optotriac have a zero-cross detection circuit included, so it will switch on the power only when the AC line sinusoid is close to zero. This is very good for the AC line power factor. The schematic for the power side is classic was extracted from the optotriac's datasheet.
It was tested by applying 12V DC to the input, and it was able to switch the 1400W oven and keep it on with no problem.3D Printing AVR Arduino Art Audio Automation BeagleBone Bluetooth Cameras Clock Drones Environment Hardware IoT LED Medical Music Radio Raspberry Pi Remote Control Robotics Rockets Satellites Science Security Software Virtual Reality Wearable
It's a 20 liters kitchen electric oven, bought for reflow soldering only. The highest temperature oven I could find in white goods shops was 250 °C (482 °F). It has 4 bar heaters, 2 on the ceiling and 2 on the floor of the oven, with a total of 1400 W.
On the box was written that it has a light bulb for the interior, but it hasn't. It has a fan, but I cover it because the temperature was raising too slow and too low. When it's running, the exterior of the oven is heating very, vary badly. Because the exterior heats so much, all the electronics must stay separately. This doesn't bother, because that was the plan from the beginning:
Tin foil was mounted on the inside to increase the maximum temperature, to cover the fan blow, and to speed up the heating rate. After covering the interior with tin foil, the oven was able to melt the solder paste with no problems.
Definitely not the best oven for the job, but good enough.
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Thanks, but your program seems to have better graphics!
Were did you get the 2015 version of it?
:o)
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Nice looking project, RoGeorge. Looking forward to reading more updates.
It looks like we're using the same schematic capture program, too. :-)