Laser is here! Now what?!

• [x] Make sure all the promised parts are included.
• [x] Visible external damage? enclosure, buttons and knobs (mine just spins freely - replaced with knob with set screw), outlets secure, broken window, etc
• [x] Unscrew the rear lid and check to make sure laser tube is not cracked.
• [x] Unscrew front right panel, check wiring for loose connections, especially grounding.  Case should be electrically connected to actual earth ground on the three prong receptacle so if any high voltage accidentally touch the case, it would go to ground instead of electrocuting you!
• [x] Unscrew the acrylic window, remove the protective paper, re-mount acrylic window.
• [x] Optional - remove spring loaded clamping bed
• [x] Mount the rear smoke fan, exhaust it to the outdoors. We will plug this onto the laser soon, but for testing just plug the fan to wall outlet.
• [x] Setup the water cooling bucket, cooling tubes, submerge the pump in 10 liter (2.8 Gallons) of distilled water and one tablespoon bleach to prevent algae. We will plug this to the laser soon, but to test, plug it to wall outlet. There should not be any air bubbles in the tubes.
• [x] Plug fan and pump to the rear of laser, so both would turn on whenever the machine is on. 
• [ ] Clean the mirrors?
• [x] Have water sprayer nearby.
• [x] Have fire extinguisher nearby.

Most people do not like the included software. Download and install these two FREE software instead:

• K40 Whisperer - Alterative software to control the laser cutter (FREE)
• InkScape- Alternative software to draw/edit your designs (FREE)

• Before plugging it in, set the power switch to OFF
• Make sure the laser toggle button is off (raised rather than depressed)
• Plug it in, set the power switch to ON.  Fan and pump should run.
• Run the water for at least a minute until there are no bubbles in the tube or laser.  If necessary, prop the right side of the laser to remove bubbles. Others have suggested a few drops of dish soap to break surface tension.
• Follow HP Persson's excellent mirror alignment instruction. I was lucky that my laser arrived fairly well aligned!

• [x] Install air assist
  • Most people use purchased or 3D printed drag chain to prevent kinking of the air tube.
  • I opted for Harbor Freight Airbrush compressor. It comes with a coiled tube, so I did not need the drag chain.
• [/] Make a chart to show effect of various settings (speed, intensity)
  • So far, I've been trying to keep power at 5mA and vary only speed.
    • For 1/8th" plywood:
      • Vector cut at 5mm/sec
      • Vector engrave at 30mm/sec
      • Raster engrave at 100mm/sec 
    • For cereal cardboard:
      • Vector engrave at ???

I will update this list as experience teaches me new lessons.

1. Well aligned mirrors.  The cutting beam must consistently and accurately hit the desired coordinates EVERYWHERE on your cutting bed.  Misaligned mirror would miss the desired spot, or lose intensity, causing inaccurate or failed cuts.
   Excellent guide on how to align mirror by HP Persson.
   
   Screw A moves the beam horizontally.
   Screw B moves the beam diagonally. Screw C moves the beam vertically.
   Source: http://dck40.blogspot.com/2013/02/post-by-nycon-how-to-adjust-mirrors-for.html
   
2. Air Assist is mandatory for cuts. The more power and slower the movements, the more flames will appear. Air Assist pump will put out these flames - preventing fires and minimize charring.  TODO: Link to video of cut with and without air assist.
   
3. Better exhaust. I was able to hack the stock exhaust fan to work better, but anything you can do to make the exhaust fan suck better means less smoke in the chamber.  Better for beam to cut, and your lungs.
   
4. Cooling water temperature should be between 15C and 25C, 18C is ideal.  People have reported permanently damaging their laser tube by running it too hot.