Before printing out your own copy of the circuit board, I recommend that you go into kicad and remove the gyro: logo. 

As indicated elsewhere, I used DirtyPCBs and was very happy with the results. These fit in the 10x10cm protoboard category. Use the THT files, those are for through hole components.

If you create new Gerbers, watch out for the drill files. By default it creates 3, but DirtyPCBs only handles one. 

This is the hardest part without a reflow oven. I have a very fine tip soldering iron that I used. An alternative method can be seen here courtesy of AvE over at YouTube

The other pieces are easily hand soldered. In order, I do the resistors. Next the IC socket. Then the audio jack and finally the 6 keyswitches.

You'll need to flash the program to the ATTiny. I use the ArduinoISP and breadboard. I flash the ATTiny fuses to use the 16MHz PLL clock. You need at least 8MHz for the FastLED library.

Get the FastLED library and install it into the Arduino environment

Adjust the code for the number of NeoPixels you are controlling. NUM_LEDS in the ino file.

You might also want to look at changing the colors used. I picked 6 that were pleasing to me, but might not be everyone's cup of tea.

Simply press into the socket

The layout is designed so that the tip of the audio plug is +5V, the ring is data and sleeve is ground.

I plan on getting some of the fun keycaps from the mechanical keyboards community just to make this that much more fun